Two days ago I have painted car. After drying of clear coat I noticed what that surface became like "white fog". I tried to polish surface however it became a little clearly and transparent. What is the problem? I used a very quality clear coat. What I have done wrong. Joe from Toronto.
Dear Joe. You are right. This is one of the most common car paint defects in our region and in Toronto in particular.
Autumn time is a very rainy and wet season. The turbidity manifests itself in the form of milky white "fog" on the painted surface.
If turbidity is present on the paintwork, it can also be present on the primer.
Note that turbidity on the primer coating may be invisible (since it is usually opaque), but later it can develop into bubbling or loss of adhesion.
Turbulence can occur if the painting is done at low temperature and high humidity, and is caused by moisture that has fallen into the paint layer.
During the spraying process, the solvent evaporates rapidly, resulting in a cooling of the paint site.
Moisture from the surrounding air condenses on a fresh paint layer, which leads to the appearance of milky white "fog".
Possible reasons for this are:
a) Using of a low-quality (cheap) solvent.
b) Using of a rapidly evaporating solvent in conditions of low temperature and high humidity. In such conditions, a special type of solvent must be used. In addition, use a minimum amount of solvent, otherwise the drying process of the applied coating will slow down considerably.
c) The operating parameters of the spray gun, the incorrect painting technique or the excess air pressure are incorrectly set.
d) Incorrect air circulation or insufficient temperature in the workplace.
e) The solvent evaporates too rapidly when the air stream is directed to the paint layer.
f) Draft in the workshop.
Ways of elimination:
a) In case of light haze, wait until the clear coat is completely dry and repair the defect with polishing.
b) Recolor the defective areas using a special solvent.
c) Spray on the defective areas of the above special solvent. Under proper conditions, this will eliminate turbidity.
d) If none of the above methods yields results, increase the air temperature in the workplace by at least 5° and ensure the absence of drafts.
Also we recommend you to try our new Clear Coat Magnum 17. It is less susceptible to humidity.
Best wishes Troton Canada Inc.
Troton of Canada is often asked to find a defect that resembles the skin of an orange.
When the car is painted, the "orange peel" occurs for the following reasons:
1. Thinner evaporates very quickly. Try to choose a diluent in accordance with the size of the object, the movement of air in the room and the temperature. We recommend using Master Zero VOC Thinners.
2. Clear coat and thinner are incompatible with each other. Try to use products of one group.
3. Clear coat is not diluted enough. The proportions of the components to be mixed should be carefully observed using the measuring rulers. You can always find on our website a detailed description and Technical data sheet product.
4. Clear coat is poorly sprayed. Defects in the painting of cars are most often due to the fact that the compressed air is unevenly applied to the spray gun. Please check the compressor and hoses. If you need to do maintenance.
5. Too much distance from the spray gun to the surface to be painted. Please adjust the distance to the surface to be painted. By default this distance is 20-30 cm, but it depends on the viscosity of the material and the spray gun setting.
6. The temperature of the medium in the room where the work is carried out is much higher than the temperature of the surface to be painted. The best temperature is +20/68 degrees C/F.
7. The paint layers are applied without observing the time period required for drying. Before painting, study the Technical data sheet.
8. A spray gun with too large a nozzle is used for work. For acrylic paints is considered a spray gun with a nozzle 1.4 but it also depends on the personal preferences of the master and his experience.
What if the painting of the car has already been completed, "orange peel" on the face and you need to get rid of the defect? Light "orange peel" can be removed by sanding and polishing. The pronounced "orange peel" can be removed only by cleaning the defective area and having to work again. Our clear coats range of the MASTER range, such as IT 07 UHS 2: 1, Ultra Fast Drying HS 2: 1 is very easy to use and have a low price with excellent quality.
The stains of paint and clear coat
Another unpleasant moment faced by our clients and masters is the stains of paint and clear coat. This happens if the paint is too liquid. It is easy to assemble into tracks that flow along vertical and inclined surfaces of the body. And this is not the only reason for this defect.
Flows can be generated due to the following errors:
- The paint is applied too thick. In this case, the coloring material itself dries very long.
- The paint is diluted too much. Or the reducer is very slow.
- The spray gun is too close to the work surface. A distance of about 20 -25 centimeters is considered normal.
- The spray gun moved along arc trajectories.
- Low temperature of the working surface or the environment.
- Clear coat was absorbed unevenly by the base.
Ways of elimination:
How to remove the paint and paint deposits and clear coat on the parts? If the flow is not large, then it can be removed with the help of fine sandpaper and a bar, and then the surface is polished. If the influx and streaks are significant, then you have to repaint the part.
All our clear coats have technical documentation where you can find out how many layers must be applied to get a high-quality coating. If before, for example, it was necessary to apply 2-3 layers of clear coat, now the modern clear coat requires application of only 1.5-2 layers.
I used DA polisher to buff out my 5 year old genesis coupe. The car had moderate swirl marks. I used GG's 6 inch polisher with hex orange pad with ultimate compound and then light blue polish pad with CG v38. In sun, the car showed some new buffer trails (holograms). I wanted to know what can I use to remove those marks? Preferably a one step solution (excluding wax) as I already two steps on the whole car and doing it again will be inconvenient.
I want to repair the hood of a Chevy Corvette (about a 5 inch crack) and I would like to know some opinions of the correct products to use.
As you know the Corvette body made from SMC (sheet moulded compaunds), so in this case we suggest to use Black Carbon - structal body filler wich is extremely strong and flexibile.
At my bodyshop we have switched from a one finishing glaze to the Troton Glaze Turbo-T and it’s been working just fine. Except for yesterday and today, I repaired a small dent on a newer GMC Acadia fender, and after primer and baking in the booth, there were 2 dime sized bubbles where it seems the glaze wasn’t dry... but the rest of the glaze throughout my repair area was completely dry. I sanded it off and re-glazed it today, and after being primed, I had a massive 2 inch spot where the material is soft. I used plenty of hardener as I didn’t want what happened the first time to happen again. Any ideas on what I may have done wrong or what could possibly be the issue? Thanks in advance.
There are a few reasons what can cause this problem:
1. The wrong portion of hardener (too much or too small the same).
2. The hardener was open for a long time and doesn't cure anymore.
3. Filler pilled of because was treated by too high temperature using dryer or IR was switched on too early and the temperature was too high.
4. The expiration date of the hardener and filler.
5. Whether the material has been overheated or frozen.
If everything has to be done correctly we have to test the product.
Good evening. I varnished the whole car. The clear coat has boiled. Please tell me how to avoid this situation in the future. And how I can properly polish. Thank you in advance.
You mean small bubbles in the coat layer, with a closer look having tiny holes on the tops. This phenomenon is mainly observed at the boundaries of regions with a thick coating.
Bubbles of the solvent are formed in a thick layer of paint, which, in turn, is formed for the following reasons:
Too much clear coat flow (adjustment of the spray gun).
Too much clear coat viscosity.
Too slowly moving the spray gun (a small amount of clear coat is applied to a small surface).
Too much overlapping of clear coat layers during spraying.
Ways of elimination:
Such a defect will be eliminated only by repainting the element.
Before applying a finishing coat of clear coat, leave the painted surface to dry completely (the drying time of the clear coat depends strongly on the thickness of its layer).
Tell me please, I use the painting in a hobby, I degrease the model, then I use a primer, I do not use my hands, only wearing gloves, and when painting with aerosol paints there are craters / bubbles. I do not know what to do, I tried different ways, I tried different colors, BUT, I do not what does not help. I have to take the model and work with sandpaper on these craters, and again spend a ton of time for painting. Chris, Calgary.
Dear Chris. This is a fairly common problem when painting.
Craters during painting or so-called "fish eyes" are small funnel-shaped holes on the paint layer that are formed
during the painting process of the car by spraying or immediately after its completion.
The appearance of craters is caused by silicone particles. Silicone contains many modern waxes, paraffin and polishing compounds. It firmly adheres to the surface of the paintwork and requires additional measures to be removed using alcohol mixtures.
Craters appear for the following reasons:
- Insufficient cleaning of the surface and poorly prepared preparation for painting.
- Contaminated surfaces are washed with soap and detergents.
It is necessary to take measures to remove traces of silicone from the surface with the help of fat and wax.
Pollution can also occur when preparing the surface for painting: from sand dust, pile used rags, automotive polishing paste.
Even if applied for a short time, these substances can cause surface contamination, which in turn will lead to the appearance of craters.
Oil in the air line of the spray gun.
The use of silicone containing additives that prevent the formation of craters is not recommended.
These additives may contaminate the workplace, which, if done in other jobs, may result in loss of adhesion.
Ways of elimination:
Smooth out the defective surfaces and apply a new coat of paint.
We recommend you to use Silicone Remover.
I'm looking for a recommendation of a glazing putty for quick repairs. Can you recommend me anything affordable that is easy to sand and won't shrink or crack?
Our product line has the perfect solution -“Glaze Turbo-T”, the glazing putty.
This putty very easy to sand, even after full curing and reduce shrinkage of filler by 95% compared to standard products. Also, it has easy application - effect of self-smoothing up and Instantly ready for sanding.
Very often in the summer our customers ask why they, after painting a clear coat, get a "Dry" spray and a rough, unevenly painted surface.
- Excessively volatile or inappropriate reducer or thinner, low humidity and high ambient temperature air.
- Flowability too clear.
- Air pressure too high.
- Too thin layer of paint film.
- Spray distance too far.
- Poorly prepared primer coating.
Ways of elimination:
If possible, polish the surface of the part. If the defect is too strong, repaint the part with paint, or cover the clear coat.